Free QR Code Generator
Create QR codes for links, WiFi networks, contact cards and more. Everything runs in your browser — nothing is uploaded — and every code is static: free forever, no expiry, no watermark.
How to make a QR code
- Pick a type — URL for links, WiFi for network access, vCard for contact details.
- Fill in the form. The preview updates as you type.
- Adjust size, colours and error correction if you plan to print.
- Download as PNG for screens, SVG for print, or JPG for documents.
Why static QR codes?
Static codes encode your data directly in the image, so they work offline, never expire, and need no account or subscription. Dynamic QR services can edit the target later, but they charge monthly and the code dies if you stop paying. For most uses — menus, posters, business cards, WiFi sharing — static is the safer choice. The full comparison is here.
Which type of code do you need?
A QR code is a container for text, and the type you pick decides what the phone does with that text once it has read it. A URL code opens a link. A WiFi code joins a network without anyone reading a password aloud. A vCard code adds a full contact entry — name, phone, email, company, address — in one scan rather than eight fields of typing. Email, SMS and phone codes pre-fill a message or a number so the recipient only has to press send.
The mistake worth avoiding is putting a plain URL in a code that should carry structured data. A link to a page that displays your phone number makes the reader do the copying; a phone or vCard code does it for them. The structured types cost nothing extra and work offline, because the data is in the pattern rather than at the other end of a network request.
Error correction, size and the quiet zone
QR codes carry Reed–Solomon error correction at one of four levels. Level L recovers from about 7% damage and produces the smallest, simplest pattern; level H recovers from around 30% but needs considerably more modules for the same data. Higher is not automatically better: more modules at the same printed size means smaller modules, which is harder for a camera to resolve, so a high correction level on a small print can scan worse than a low one.
For a screen or a clean printed card, L or M is right. Reserve Q and H for codes that will be scanned in poor light, from an angle, or printed on something that will get scuffed — a sticker on a machine, a label on packaging, anything outdoors.
The quiet zone is the blank margin around the pattern, and it is part of the code rather than decoration. Crowding it with a border, a logo or text is the single most common reason a technically valid code refuses to scan.
Printing codes that work
Keep dark modules on a light background. Inverted codes — light on dark — are readable by some decoders and not others, and there is no benefit worth that risk. Contrast matters more than colour: a dark blue on white scans fine, while a mid-grey on light grey fails on older cameras.
Size follows scanning distance. A rough working rule is that the printed code should be about a tenth of the distance it will be scanned from, so a code read at a metre wants roughly ten centimetres. Download SVG for anything going to print, since it scales without the soft edges a stretched PNG produces, and test with more than one phone before committing to a print run.